Exploring Portugal: Figueira da Foz

Having seen what Coimbra had to offer, I decided to take a day trip. And what better place than coastal city of Figueira da Foz, which lies some 40 km (25 miles) west of Coimbra.

Figueira da Foz is known for its many beaches, but it's the town beach of Praia da Bola de Nivea that catches people's attention. It's 2 km (1.25 miles) long, and so wide that it takes a good ten minutes to walk from the edge of the beach to the sea, which gives rise to the claims that it's the widest beach in Europe.

It certainly felt like that as I trudged through the gritty sand, fighting a cold wind. Though it was cheering to see the sea, the visit was a short one. My hair was being whipped across my face by the wind, and I was finding it hard to hold my camera steady. I did the best I could, before giving up and heading back to the town where I sought refuge in a nearby café...


I couldn't even see the sea from the edge of the beach

Walking slowly uphill...



Finally! There's the sea!

Getting closer

Watching the waves

Waves crashing onto the shore

Exploring Portugal: Coimbra

I had always known that I would be teaching half a year of Saturdays. Since I was new, it made sense that those would be the second half of the year. Only later did I realise that it meant working when the weather was as its best. Sigh.

Determined to make the most of my last 'free' weekend, I booked an overnight stay in Coimbra, the former Roman settlement of Aeminium located on a hill overlooking the Mondego River. Once the country's former capital (1131-1255), Coimbra is best known for its university. Founded in 1290, Universidade de Coimbra is one of the oldest universities in Europe and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.


View from Universidade de Coimbra

While sitting on the train, I looked out of the window, and in direct contradiction with the weather forecast, the skies were an ominous shade of grey. Keen to make the most of my trip, I decided that a few grey clouds were not going to ruin my weekend. Once in Coimbra, I got the train to the centre and located my hotel, congratulating myself on its proximity to both the river and the main sites. Too early to check in, I decided to go exploring, where upon I came across the Igreja de Santa Cruz, a monstrosity of a church. Next door, in the adjoining monastery was a rather quaint café, where I treated myself to a cup of tea and a pastel com natas.

Refreshed, I decided to explore the old university. Once I had ascertained which building it actually was, I walked through the old gate and was hit with the most breathtaking of views. By this time, the sun had come out and the skies provided a deep blue backdrop to the white university. Those views alone made my Coimbra trip worthwhile.

Statues outside Faculdade das Letras (Faculty of Letters)



Mosaic of the university's seal in front of Porta do Paço (Palace Gate)



Paço Real (University Palace)



The photo that best sums up my trip

Covered walkway



Under the arches



Central steps



The clock tower, nicknamed A Cabra (The Goat)



Another view of Paço Real



Looking across the city



The Mondego River



Rooftops and river views

Aesthetically-pleasing architecture



Sunlit walkway



Entrance to Faculdade de Direito (Factulty of Law)

By the time I made my way back down to the main square, the skies were overcast. Following a lunch of rock bass (my go-to dish in Portugal), I went wandering again. A wrong turn saw me back at the hotel, so I opted to take a break from sightseeing and rest my weary feet. A little while later, I ventured outside, mainly so I could take some photos of the Mondego River.

Standing on Ponte de Santa Clara



View across the Mondego

Late afternoon river

It had always been my intention to revisit Coimbra, but with a list of places to see and just four-and-a-half months left to see them in, I never made it back. Perhaps one day I will...

Exploring Portugal: Lisbon #2

Not having seen everything I wanted to the first time round, a return trip to Lisbon was always on the cards. This time, however, I would be going alone. And to avoid having to have that awkward conversation with my colleague, I tacked the trip onto the end of my Christmas holiday, flying from Bristol to Lisbon instead of Porto.

The surprising ease with which I got back to Lisbon was quickly counter-balanced by my having forgotten both the name of the hostel I had booked and its location. Fortunately I had had the good sense to bring not just Mr Red (my netbook) but my dongle as well (yay me!) so I found myself a seat in arrivals and logged on. Ten minutes later I had the necessary information.

To make life easy for myself I decided to get a taxi but when I stepped outside the terminal, I saw the aerobus, which at just €3.50 (£2.80/US$4.40) was a much better bet. A short hop later I was deposited at Rossio, where I was treated to a very different Lisbon from the one I had seen previously...

Rossio is on the corner of the posh Chiado district, and it shows. It's a world away from the grungy Alfama district. Happily the bus stop was literally outside the hostel. Though fairly unenticing from the oustide, once inside, it was like I stepped into a whole new world. It was large and bright, with comfy seats everywhere. The dorms were a delight – warm coloured walls, rag rugs on polished wooden floors, comfortable beds with pretty bedspreads – and each bed had its own locker underneath complete with a safe. My window looked out onto the square, still bedecked in Christmas lights. Amazingly all this set me back a mere €15 pn (£12/US$19). Toto, I don't think we're in Paris anymore!

The view from my hostel window

I had had high hopes of seeing everything I had missed, and of ticking off several things from Rough Guide's 34 things not to miss list. Instead, illness and sense (possibly brought on by said illness) caused me to rethink my plans. Thus, I divided my time between the Chiado district, the beaches and Belém.

Arched walkway at Praça do Comércio



Early morning at Praça do Comércio

View across the Tagus

Seagulls gazing out to sea

 

The remains of the Igreja do Carmo in Rossio Square

On my first day, I spent an enjoyable couple of hours in Cascais. Having taken in the main sights, I walked the 2 km (1.25 miles) along the seafront to Estoril, home of the casino which inspired Ian Fleming to write Casino Royale. From there I caught the train back to Lisbon.


The first of many beautiful beaches at Cascais



Farol de Santa Marta



Deserted beaches at Cascais



Seagulls in flight



Expanses of empty beach at Estoril

 

 

The inspiration for Casino Royale

Not fancying the stress of getting to Lisbon's Campo Grande station to catch a bus to Mafra, the next day was reserved entirely for Belém. Unfortunately several hundred others had the same idea. The crowds meant that the pastéis de Belém had long-since sold out and entry to Mosteiro dos Jerónimos would have required the patience of a saint, not to mention an hour-long queue. No thanks!

Statue of Vasco da Gama



Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

Manueline style architecture



Close-up of the bell tower

As much of the monastery as I saw

So, I crossed the footbridge and went to brave the crowds at Padrão dos Descobrimentos and the queues at the Torre de Belém instead... The lift to the top of Padrão dos Descobrimentos was fairly painless. The views were something of a disappointment though, as being of the shorter persuasion, I wasn't really tall enough to see over the walls (and I was wearing heels). The views from Torre de Belém were equally disappointing, this time because they were obstructed by unchecked crowds, all here to see the 'must-see' of Belém. The verdict? I'm glad I went but I think Belém is probably best seen on a rainy day!


The ship-like Padrão dos Descobrimentos



Padrão dos Descobrimentos with Ponte 25 de Abril in the background



Torre de Belém

Postcards from... Paris

As one of Europe's best-known cities, I had some reservations about visiting Paris. I was worried that I wouldn't see the Paris of the movies, and that I would fail to be charmed by the City of Light. But, as I was flying home for Christmas anyway, I figured I may as well route through Paris and spend a few days seeing the sights before getting the Eurostar back to London. I hadn't banked on it being quite so cold though. I was used to living in Portugal where low temperatures meant 10°C (50°F). In Paris it was -6°C (21°F).

Most of my memories of Paris revolve around being absolutely freezing, and being stuck with company I would not have chosen in the form of an awful colleague and her sullen sister. But as with everywhere I go, I was determined to find at least one or two redeeming points. And I was going to record these things photographically so I would have something to look back on one day...


A winter wonderland in Place d'Italie

The biggest attraction for visitors to Paris, myself included, would have to be the iconic Eiffel Tower. And despite the cold and the horrid company, I found myself getting childishly excited as we drew closer. The fact that it was shrouded in mist just added to its beauty. As my unwelcome companions marched stoically on, I hung back trying to capture this ghostly apparition...


First glimpse of the Eiffel Tower



Getting closer...



View from across the Seine

Another must was walking down the Champs-Élysées, mainly so we could see the Arc de Triomphe de l'Étoile. One of the city's most famous sights, it honours those who fought and died for France during the French Revolution and the Napoleonic War. In the cold December light it looked anything but triumphant. In fact, I thought it rather sad and forlorn.

The rather forlorn Arc de Triomphe

Having accidentally-on-purposely lost my companions in The Louvre, I was free to explore. It was just a shame it was so cold. Still, keen to make the most of my freedom, I wandered through the snowy Jardin des Tuileries towards Place de la Concorde.

Statue of Theseus and the Minotaur



Place de la Concorde with a ghostly Eiffel Tower in the background



The view from Les Tuileries looking back towards Place de la Concorde



Snowy dog

Once described as "a history book in its own right", La Cathédrale de Notre Dame has seen funerals, marriages, conversions and coronations among other things. To this day it remains one of the main symbols of the city and a must-see for any visitor to Paris. Construction began in 1163, and the cathedral was finally completed over one hundred years later in 1272. It was one of the first buildings in the world to use flying buttresses (arched exterior supports), although these were not in the original plan.


A wintery Notre Dame

Detail on one of the arches

From Notre Dame our wanderings took us to Palais de Luxembourg. The palace was originally built between 1615 and 1630 as a royal residence for Marie de Médicis, mother of King Louis XIII of France. In 1750, it became a museum. The Musée du Luxembourg was the first French museum to be opened to the public, who could see paintings by Rubens (from the Royal Collection), da Vinci, Raphael, Van Dyck and Rembrandt among others. All the works of art were subsequently transferred to the Louvre.

The palace and former museum became a prison during the French Revolution (1789-99), and in 1799 it became the first residence of Napolean Bonaparte as First Consul of the French Republic.


A splash of colour at Palais de Luxembourg

Our final stop was visiting the Montmartre area of the city. The Sacré Coeur was disappointingly grey against the flat skies. In a bid to rid myself of my companions (yet again), I sneaked off and climbed the 300 steps to the tower. Between the cloud and the mist, I could see no further than the building itself but I enjoyed trying to capture the details.

View from the dome

Close up of one of the gargoyles

Back on the ground (and reunited with my companions), I was keen to see the café made famous by the film Amélie. Try as we might, we couldn't find it. Eventually, we stopped someone and asked for directions in pidgin French and they pointed us in the right direction. Without further ado, we went inside, found a table and ordered some hot drinks.

Straight out of a movie

We stayed in the café for as long as we reasonably could. We were waiting for it to get dark before we went to see the final place on our itinerary – Moulin Rouge. By now it was lit up in all its tacky glory. We stood and took photos until we could bear the cold no longer and then we headed back to the hostel, happy that we had seen what we had come for.

The warm glow of the Moulin Rouge

Between the inclement weather and the unwelcome company, Paris turned out to be something of a disappointment. And that made me sad. There I was in one of the most famous cities in the world and I was distinctly underwhelmed. However, I think Paris probably deserves a second chance so I hope to revisit it in the not-too-distant future. I won't be going in winter though. Or with company.