Thursday, 29 October 2015

Exploring España: Málaga

Malaga had never really been on my radar. For me, the city's main selling point was its proximity to Granada. Nonetheless, while I was in the area, I figured I may as well explore it.

I arrived in Málaga early on the morning of Thursday, 15th May, but immediately headed for Granada. The following day, after my tour of the Alhambra, I got a bus back at 16:00, which got me into the city at around 17:30. Two early mornings on the trot had left me exhausted and it was all I could do to locate my hostel. Knowing that the weather on Saturday was going to be less than pleasant, I forced myself to have a wander. But after a very short time, tiredness hit and I dragged myself back to the hostel and fell into bed.

The next day, I woke up earlier than I would have liked and went to have breakfast on the hostel's roof terrace. The views were amazing, and I spent a while photographing everything in sight. I eventually made time to eat, and then, fueled up, took my camera and went to explore.

View of Iglesia de San Pablo from the terrace


Pink bougainvillea


Overlooking the rooftops

Somewhat disappointingly the weather, which over breakfast had been gorgeous, took a turn for the worse. But I was determined to the make the most of my short time in the city and so I headed purposefully for the first sight on the tourist trail – the Alcazaba (citadel). Built by the Muslim Hammudid dynasty in the 11th century, it is said to be the best-preserved Arabic fortress in Spain. My photos don't do it justice though. Blame the grey skies!

A brick archway


Flowers bringing some colour to the day


A Spanish coat of arms


Traditional Moorish arches


Decorative window


Patio de los Cuartos de Granada


Incredibly detailed window surround


Perfect symmetry


The crown's coat of arms


Tulbaghia violacea, a species of flowering plant in the onion family more commonly known as 'Pink agapanthus'

I have always fancied living by the sea, (which makes you wonder how I ended up living in Madrid!), so whenever I get the chance, I go to the beach. More often than not, city beaches are unattractive, and Playa de La Malagueta was no exception. That said, the cloudy skies coupled with a rather cold breeze might have affected my opinion. If it had been gloriously sunny, perhaps I'd have felt differently...

The slightly scruffy-looking Playa de La Malagueta


Taking in the views


Looking out to sea

A short hop from the beach is Paseo del Parque. Sandwiched between two very busy roads, it's an absolute gem of a park that is home to a host of beautiful, exotic plants. The park was a riot of colour and I couldn't help but smile as I discovered some of my favourites.

One of my favourite flowers – Strelitzia reginae, commonly known as 'Bird of Paradise'


Red hibiscus


A splash of yellow


The beautiful Jacaranda mimosifolia


Close-up of the Jacaranda blossom


Solitude in the park


Pink agapanthus


Horse and cart on C/ Cortina del Muelle

From the park, I made my way down C/ Molina Lario, past some horses and carts, and on to the cathedral. But before I could go inside, I got distracted by one of the most beautiful gardens I had ever seen. Channels of water, with a mini-water jet and a bird bath at the centre, ran underneath pink and red hibiscus bushes – it was absolutely gorgeous.

Lone pink hibiscus


One of the water channels


Hanging hibiscus

After the beauty of the gardens, I was reluctant to go into the cathedral in case it didn't live up to expectations. So I wandered all around it, photographing the entrances. Construction began in 1528 and was completed in 1782. Like the cathedral in Granada, this one is built on the site of a former mosque. It is predominantly Renaissance in style, but the façade is Baroque.

The single tower, the other one never having been built


The Baroque façade


Close-up of the façade


One of a pair of stone lions


Another façade with intricate stone carvings

Having taken in the gardens and the exterior, it was time to brave the interior. Unfortunately, it was something of a let-down. Some nice ceilings aside, it didn't have a huge amount going for it. And the little I did find attractive, I struggled to capture thanks to some very low-lighting and nowhere to steady the camera.

The altar


Close-up of the ceilings

For my final day, following a leisurely breakfast on the sunny roof-top terrace, I had just enough time to take a wander through the near-empty centre and re-visit the cathedral gardens. But all too soon, it was time to head back to the airport for my early afternoon flight to Madrid.

One final view from the terrace

Though going to Málaga was more about having easy access to Granada, I'm very glad I spent some time in the city as it turned out to be far more interesting than I could ever have imagined. I particularly loved the parks and gardens, and I also enjoyed visiting the Picasso Museum. I wouldn't mind revisiting the city as there were some sights I missed off, among them Castillo de Gibralfaro, the botanic gardens and the birthplace of Picasso. However, I doubt that I will return in the foreseeable future, and if I do, it will probably be for ease of access to someplace else.

Monday, 26 October 2015

Exploring España: Granada #2

Like most people, I was visiting Granada for one reason and one reason only – to see the Alhambra. Having accidentally left it too late to buy a ticket online, I ended up shelling out €52 (£42/US$71) for a guided group tour, which meant sacrificing photo-taking time for imparted knowledge. Nonetheless, I still managed to take more than 400 photos in just over two hours!

La Alhambra (Al-Ḥamrā' in Arabic) is a palace and fortress complex built on the site of a ninth century fort. In the 13th century, the ruins of the fort were renovated and the current palace and walls were built by Muḥammad ibn al-’Aḥmar, founder of the Nasrid dynasty (the last Muslim dynasty in Spain) and first Nasrid Sultan of Granada (r. 1238-1273). In 1333, Yusuf I, Sultan of Granada (r. 1333-1354) converted the complex into a royal site and continued to make alterations and additions. The work was completed by his son and successor, Muhammed V, Sultan of Granada (r. 1354-1359 and 1362-1391).

Following the Reconquista (Christian reconquest) in 1492, parts of the site were used by Christian rulers. Thus, in amongst the Moorish buildings, you can find the Renaissance Palace of Carlos V, which was built in 1527. Over time, the complex fell into disrepair and it remained that way until the 19th century when it was rediscovered and restored. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is one of Spain's major tourist attractions with some 7,000 people a day visiting it during the high season!

The Alhambra from the Generalife

My tour started with the Palacio de Generalife (in Arabic Jannat al-‘Arīf, literally, 'Architect's Garden'). Constructed during the reign of Muhammed III, Sultan of Granada (r. 1302-1309), it was designed to be a summer palace for the Nasrid emirs. Today, the gardens are thought to be one of the oldest surviving Moorish gardens in Spain.

Looking across to El Albayzín


One of the many roses in bloom


Late spring roses


Yellow roses in the Generalife


 Trachelospermum jasminoides, commonly known as 'Star Jasmine'


The beautiful Patio de la Acequia (Court of the Water Channel)


Arches offering views across the city

From the gardens we made our way to the Medina. All that remains now are mere foundations of what was once the beating heart of the city, home to government officials, employees and court servants. During the Granada War (1482-1492), the citadel was blown up by the French, who are said to have declared that if they couldn't have it, no-one would.

Realising that he could no longer defend the once impenetrable fortress, the 22nd and last Nasrid Sultan of Granada (r. 1482-1483 and 1487-1492) Abu 'Abdallah Muhammed XII, more commonly known as Boabdil, surrendered the city to the Catholic Monarchs, King Fernando II (r. 1479-1516) and Queen Isabel I (r. 1479-1504) and made his escape through La Puerta de los Siete Suelos. Legend has it that as the Sultan's party moved south, Boabdil turned and looked back at the Alhambra, and burst into tears when he saw what he had lost. His mother approached him and said tartly, "Cry like a woman for what you could not defend as a man".

The remains of the citadel


La Puerta de los Siete Suelos (the Gate of the Seven Floors)

Having seen what little there was of the Medina, our guide took us through La Puerta del Vino (the Wine Gate) and to the Alcazaba (citadel). This is the oldest part of the Alhambra, thought to have been built even before the Muslims arrived. Like the Medina, very little remains – only the outer walls, towers and ramparts.

The views from the Alcazaba are stunning. In fact, I was so taken with the views of the Albayzín district that I almost missed the snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountains!

The military district showing the remains of the houses of the royal guard


Views from the Alcazaba


El Albayzín


The stunning Sierra Nevada


Some of the remaining towers


Leaving the Alcazaba

The pièce de résistance, and the part most people will recognise from the photos, is of course Los Palacios Nazaríes (Nasrid Palaces), a palatial complex that comprises three main areas – the Mexuar, the Comares (also known as the Palace of Yusuf I), and Patio de los Leones (the Court of the Lions). Of the 400 or so photos I took, over half of them were taken in the Nasrid Palaces.

The tour commenced in El Patio de Machuca, which took us into the Mexuar. This was the place where the Council of Ministers met and where the Sultan dispensed justice. Just off the Mexuar is an oratory where the Muslims prayed. Being non-Muslim, however, we couldn't enter and I had to settle for taking a couple of shots from behind a rope.

Entering the Nasrid Palaces from Patio de la Machuca


Moorish tilework in the Mexuar


The oratory


Close-up of the windows in the oratory


The door leading to La Fachada de Comares (the Façade of Comares)

On leaving the Mexuar, we entered the room containing La Fachada de Comares (the Façade of Comares). This majestic construction was commissioned by Muhammed V in 1370 to commemorate the conquest of Algeciras. The façade separated the administrative and private parts of the palace. Underneath the façade are two doors, with the left one leading to the main part of the palace and the right to the family and servants' quarters.

The archway to my immediate left


Detail of the plasterwork


The façade


Window grilles enabled women to see what was happening without being seen


Doorway leading to Patio de Arrayanes (The Court of the Myrtles)

We went through the left door and found ourselves standing in one of the most beautiful areas of the palace – Patio de Arrayanes (The Court of the Myrtles, so-called because of the bushes that were planted there). If you have ever come across pictures of the inside of the Nasrid Palaces, this is probably what you have seen.

The south portico

In Moorish times, visitors to the palace were taken to Patio de Arrayanes and left to sit in the sun before being granted an audience with the Sultan. This had little to do with allowing the visitors to admire the scenery though. Instead, it was a calculated plan to discomfit the guest. Outside it was bright, and the sun and the white buildings reflecting off the water would dazzle the guest and leave him near-blind. After a while he would be taken into a darkened room (the Chamber of the Ambassadors) to meet the Sultan, whom he now could not see. The temporary blindness would wrong-foot him and he would likely ask the Sultan for far less than he had intended to.

Inside the darkened Chamber of the Ambassadors


The north portico reflected in the water


Detail of the arches


Some of the tilework


Close-up of the carvings

All too soon we left the Court of the Myrtles – I would have liked to take in the views a bit longer – and within minutes were standing in Patio de los Leones (the Court of the Lions). Constructed by Muhammed V between 1362 and 1391, it is said to be the most complete example of Moorish architecture in the world.

The entrance to Patio de los Leones


Close-up of the plasterwork


More intricate carvings and a wooden door


The Fountain of the Lions


Close-up of the lions


A bird above one of the arches

On one side of Patio de los Leones is Sala de Abencerrajes (the Hall of the Abencerrajes), a room with a beautiful eight-pointed star just below the cupola, some 16th century Sevillian tiles... and a gruesome history.

According to a 16th century legend, one of the Sultan's wives was rumoured to be having an affair with a man from the North African Abencerraje family. However, no-one could be sure which one it was. Determined to have his revenge, the Sultan invited all the Abencerraje men (of which there were 36) to a banquet. He then led them into a room, locked the door and had them killed. And thus the room got its name.

The star-shaped cupola design


Sevillian tilework

On the other side of the Court of the Lions is La Sala de dos Hermanas (the Hall of the Two Sisters), which is structurally similar to the Hall of the Abencerrajes.

The ceiling


Plasterwork

We left the Hall of the Two Sisters, walked out into a courtyard – from where, once again, we got lovely views over the city – and through a gate, which deposited us firmly outside the Nasrid Palaces. The tour, it would seem, was over. The guide told us that our tickets were still valid so we could stay in the grounds all day if we chose to. But since you can only enter the Generalife and Nasrid Palaces once, I couldn't see the point. And so I left.

One last view of the city

Normally, I hate guided tours, but in this case I have to concede that I got far more out of the experience than I would have had I tried to see the Alhambra alone. However, the tour was rather too rushed for my liking, so although I got all the pertinent information, I had little time to take it in and enjoy the views. I definitely think a return trip is in order, and this time I'll be sure to book the tickets for a self-guided tour well in advance!