Postcards from... Roskilde

I woke up on my fourth and final day in Copenhagen to discover that it was raining. Again. But determined to not to let a bit of rain ruin my last day in Denmark, I decided to go sightseeing anyway. The destination of choice was Roskilde, a 25-minute train ride west of the capital.

One of Denmark's oldest cities, Roskilde has a long history dating back to the Viking Age when it was a hub for land and sea trade. Believed to have been founded in the 980s by Harald Bluetooth, King of Denmark (c. 958-986), Roskilde went on to the become the most important town in Sjælland, and was capital from the 11th century until 1443.

The modern-day Viking workshop

By the time I reached Roskilde, it was tipping down rain. I headed straight for Vikingeskibsmuseet (Viking Ship Museum). Following a 15-minute walk through town and a wet park, I was, once again, soaked to the skin and feeling thoroughly fed up. One cup of Lapsang Souchong later, and a large slice of a delicious chocolate cake, I was feeling rather less so. Time to explore the museum.


Boats on the Roskilde Fjord

Around 1070, five Viking ships were deliberately sunk at Skuldelev in the Roskilde Fjord with a view to blocking the waterway and protecting Roskilde from sea attack. The Skuldelev ships were excavated in 1962, and Vikingeskibsmuseet was built in 1969 to house them. When expanding the museum in the 1990s, nine more ships were uncovered, among them a 36 m (118 ft) long boat, the longest Viking warship ever discovered.

From the very moment I stepped inside, I was hooked. The displays were fascinating and the recovered boats were awesome. I fell in love with Viking history all over again.

Skuldelev 1 – the 30 m (98 ft) long ocean-going trader



Skuldelev 3 – the 14 m (45 ft) long coastal trader

Another view of Skuldelev 3 with Skuldelev 5 in the background

When I left the museum, the rain had stopped and the day had brightened up a little. My wanderings took me Roskilde Domkirke (Roskilde Cathedral). Standing on the site of a 10th century wooden church, the cathedral was constructed during the 12th and 13th centuries. It was the first Gothic cathedral in Scandinavia to be built of brick. Today, the cathedral, which became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995, attracts more than 125,000 visitors annually.

Centuries of history on a grey day

The beautiful nave

Looking down the nave



Arches within arches within arches

Since the 15th century, with the burial of Queen Margrethe I (r. 1387-1412), it has been the main burial site for Danish Monarchs, a tradition which continues to this day. In 2013, changes were made to the interior to accommodate the future resting places of Queen Margrethe II (r. 1972- ) and her husband, Henrik, Prince Consort of Denmark (r. 1972- ).


The sarcophagus of Queen Margrethe I (r. 1387-1412)



Sarcophagus of Christian V (r. 1670-1699)



Frescoes c. 1460 on the ceiling of the Chapel of the Magi

My last day in Denmark may have been a complete wash-out weather-wise, but I will never regret going to Roskilde. Aside from feeding my love of all things Viking, I got to explore one of the most beautiful cathedrals I've ever been in. I'd go back for the ceilings alone!