Exploring España: Palma de Mallorca

Palma de Mallorca boasts a long and chequered history, which has seen Romans, Byzantines, Moors and Catalans all fighting to stake their claim on the city. Originally home to a Talaiotic settlement during the Bronze Age, Palma de Mallorca's fortunes changed in 123 BC with the founding of the Roman city of Palmeria, from which the city's name today is derived.

Due to its advantageous position, Palmeria was subject to frequent Vandal, Viking and Saracen attacks. Following the decline of the Roman Empire, the city fell into the hands of the Byzantines. Then, in 902 AD, it was taken by the Moors, who named it Medina Mayurqa. It was finally conquered by the Catalans under Jaume I, King of Aragón (r. 1213-1276) in December 1229, and Palma, then known as Ciutat de Mallorca, was born.

When Jaume I died in 1276, his son, Pere III (r. 1276-1285), became ruler. However, it was under Pere's second son, Jaume II (r. 1291-1327) that Mallorca flourished. Jaume II commissioned the construction of many of the city's most famous buildings, among them La Seu (the huge Gothic cathedral), Palau de l'Almudaina and Bellver Castle...

First view of Palma de Mallorca from Parc de la Mar

My flight landed at 07:55. I got myself to the airport bus stop, paid €3 and, having checked my map to make sure I more-or-less knew where I was, jumped off at La Feixina. Not having had a holiday all year, I couldn't wait to start exploring. I figured I couldn't get lost with the huge cathedral on the horizon. Before long I was standing in Parc de la Mar with the sun beaming down...

 

In a city steeped in history, Passeig Marítim, officially known as Avinguda de Gabriel Roca, is a relatively recent creation, having only been reclaimed from the sea in the 1960s. Prior to this, the sea came up to the city walls and, in doing so, provided the perfect reflection for the cathedral. City planners were keen to recreate this and so constructed Parc de la Mar, complete with artificial lake. And this, was almost the first thing I saw when I followed my feet towards the cathedral.

The artificial lake in Parc de la Mar

No visit to Mallorca would be complete without seeing the magnificent cathedral, La Seu, the jewel in the crown of Mallorcan architecture. Thanks to seasonal opening times (or lack thereof), I never actually got to see inside. However, the outside was glorious enough for me.

 

Legend has it that when sailing towards Mallorca, Jaume I got caught in a huge storm. He vowed to build a great church in honour of the Virgin Mary if he landed safely. On New Year's Day 1230, the day after the fall of the city, he symbolically laid the foundation stone on the site of a pre-existing Arab mosque. Although it took 400 years to build, this huge Gothic cathedral dominants the seafront and stands as testament to the might of the seafaring Christian conquerors. However, using the site of the mosque means that anyone kneeling at the altar in the cathedral faces the direction of Mecca rather than Jerusalem.

 

Parc de la Mar with the huge cathedral in the background

La Seu, the imposing Gothic cathedral

 

Palau de l'Almudaina

 

Dating from the 16th century, the Baluard de Sant Pere formed part of the Renaissance city walls

  

The Banys Àrabs (Arabic Baths) are the only remaining monument from Palma's Moorish past. It's impossible to date them accurately, but they are believed to have been built around the 10th century. The smaller of the two rooms may once have been a tepidarium. It led to the caldarium or bath room, which has a cupola with five oculi that let in light. The mismatched columns are the result of 'recycling' from earlier Roman creations.

The sign for the baths, with an unfortunate attempt at German

The remains of the tepidarium

The tepidarium leading to the caldarium

Inside the caldarium

High on a hill 112m above sea level stands Castell de Bellver (meaning 'lovely view' in Catalan), the only circular castle in Spain. Built in the early 14th century for Jaume II of Mallorca, this Gothic-style castle was intended to serve as a residence for the kings of Mallorca. However, it became a prison after the demise of the Kingdom of Mallorca. Today it houses the City History Museum, which gives a detailed history of Palma from its Roman origins in 123 BC to the present day,

The castle in the early morning



The unusual circular castle



The castle keep



View of the ground floor

Climbing the stairs to the roof

View of the keep from the roof

Views from the castle

 

Though I have no desire to be in it, I love being near the sea, so a trip to some of Palma's beaches was a must. I started by visiting Cala Mayor, allegedly a 20-minute walk from my hotel. It took me far longer than that, but the views were more than worth it. Having spent a little time there (and taken hundreds of photos), I walked to the opposite side of the city and the beautiful Platja Ca'n Pere Antoni. It was gorgeous, and it reignited my desire to one day live by sea...

Cala Mayor



Wild sea at Platja Ca'n Pere Antoni



Deserted lifeguard station at Platja Ca'n Pere Antoni