In June 2014, I spent three days in Sevilla, but unlike just about every other tourist ever, I didn't fall head-over-heels in love with the city. Instead, I found it to be little more than a big fat tourist trap – overpriced, overcrowded and far from deserving of the accolades heaped upon it. But no matter how charmless I think a place, I can usually find something I like, and Sevilla was no different...
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| Close-up of some of the flowers on Muelle de Nueva York |
Having been left distinctly underwhelmed by the city's historic buildings, I set off in search of a more modern offering –
El Metropol Parasol, more commonly known as Las Setas (the mushrooms) for its funghi-like appearance.
Designed by the German architect, Jürgen Mayer-Hermann, the building – thought to be the largest wooden structure in the world – measures 150 x 70 m (490 x 230 ft) and has an approximate height of 26 m (85 ft). Work commenced in 2005 and, following long delays, it was finally completed in 2011.
I soon found what I was looking for. And that's when my opinion of Sevilla changed. Forget the centuries-old cathedral, forget the ancient
Alcázar – THIS was what made Sevilla worth visiting. For a mere €3 (£2.50/US$4), I was treated to some stunning views right across the city. I could happily have stayed up there all day, just drinking it all in...
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| Las Setas |
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| Standing underneath the 'mushrooms' in La Plaza de la Encarnación |
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| Starting the walk... |
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| Looking across the city with La Iglesia de la Anunciación in the foreground |
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| View of La Iglesia de la Anunciación |
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| An overview of the walkway |
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| Descending... |
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| ...and ascending |
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| View of the waffle-like structure and the highest point |
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| Oh, go on then, one more photo |
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| Leaving Las Setas |
On my second day, having had some breakfast, I went wandering and somehow mis-read my map (which is nothing unusual for me) and ended up getting lost. I can't even remember what I was looking for now, but what I ended up finding made my day. I had stumbled across
La Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza de Caballería de Sevilla (the bullring). Ordinarily, I wouldn't get all that excited about a bullring – I mean I live right beside one in Madrid and I've never visited it – but I realised that this one was the very one I'd seen in photos, one of the symbols of Spain so to speak. Guided tour for €7 (£5.60/US$9.35)? I didn't need asking twice!
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| The very view I was after |
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| Breaking away from the guide to grab another photo |
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| The top rows |
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| Looking along the row of seats |
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| Sol y sombra |
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| Seat numbers |
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| The shady seats – probably the place to be on a hot summer's day in Sevilla |
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| Passageway leading to the museum |
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| The museum's only cow, famous for being the mother of the bull that killed Manolete |
Later, on the way back to the hotel, I passed the cathedral. Outside on Avenida de la Constitución, there was a dancer drawing quite the crowd. I carefully edged forward till I had a front row view and watched for a while. But soon our eyes were drawn away from the dancer and towards a little girl in a pink dress who was imitating the dancer's moves with concentrated determination...
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| Flying shawl |
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| Dancer having her moves copied by a fan |
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| The picture of concentration |
Seeing these simple sights made me look upon Sevilla more kindly. While I am unlikely to be running back there anytime soon, I can at least look back on my trip and smile. And given my earlier feelings towards the city, that's got to be progress!
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