Thursday 15 January 2015

Postcards from... Hạ Long Bay

As both a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the New Seven Natural Wonders of the World, it's no wonder that Hạ Long Bay (which translates as "descending dragon bay") is high on people's 'must-see' lists.

Situated in the Gulf of Tonkin, Hạ Long Bay comprises some 1,600 huge limestone islands, which have been eroded over 20 million years. Some are hollow and home to enormous caves, one of the most well-known being Sung Sôt (Surprise Cave) on Bo Hòn Island. Some have amazing viewpoints, while others have beaches, although I believe these are man-made. At least the one I went to was.

We were bussed to Bai Cháy Tourist Wharf where we stood on a narrow ledge and waited impatiently for one of the rickety-looking boats to take us out to our cruising boat. The queue for boats was immense and, if I remember correctly, we stood there for quite a while.
 
The dirty wharf
 
Having survived my rickety boat ride through some very questionable water, I was pleasantly surprised by the style and cleanliness of the boat that I'd be calling home for the next two days. We were given some refreshments and then shown to our rooms. I dumped my stuff and went to grab a prime spot on the sun deck...
 
The sun deck

 
Entering Hạ Long Bay


One of a pair of carved dragons on the boat

And then we set sail, leaving the noisy, smelly, oily wharf behind. There were 'oohs' and 'aahs' as we caught sight of the karst formations for the first time. I must have taken hundreds of them, but thanks to losing my computer to someone who shall remain nameless, I now only have the few I'd uploaded to Facebook. They're far from the best shots I've ever taken, but they do at least give you some idea of what I experienced.

The first of many karst formations


Getting closer

After about an hour and a half on-board, we made our first stop. The boat docked close to Bo Hòn Island. We were taken to shore in a small boat, rather similar to the one we'd used at the wharf. From there it was a steep climb to Sung Sôt (Surprise Cave). Without a tripod, it was too dark in the cave to get any decent shots, but the views across the Bay more than made up for the lack of interior pictures.

Looking back at the boat... just to make sure it was still there


Another boat

 
Inside the cave


Tourists at the viewpoint


View across the Bay

Back on the boat and we continued on our journey, heading for Ti Tốp Island. Once ashore, half the group rushed to sit on the rather unimpressive man-made beach. I failed to see the appeal, preferring to climb the 427 steps to the summit (I didn't realise there were quite so many!). Having huffed and puffed up the seemingly never-ending steps, I finally reached the top and was rewarded with amazing views of misty karst formations...

Another view of the boat


The disappointing man-made beach
 

Proving that the best things come to those who climb...


Back on the boat as evening draws in

It seems so long ago now that I can't remember where the boat docked for the night. I do remember being slightly disappointed when I woke up and realised that I was heading back to Hà Nội that day. I would have loved to have stayed longer, but doing so would mean not being able to take my final tour – a visit to Hòa Bình. So, as we made our way back to the wharf, I gazed out to sea, trying to capture every last view...
 
Leaving the Bay


One of the carved figureheads

If I ever make it back to Vietnam, a longer trip to Hạ Long Bay is definitely on the cards. I barely even scratched the surface with my one-night tour.

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