Postcards from... Porvoo

On the morning I was due to go to Porvoo, I was woken by the unmistakable roar of thunder, quickly followed by the sound of torrential rain bouncing off the roof. Even though it wasn't entirely unexpected, I felt somehow cheated. The previous four days of glorious sunshine had erased any memories of bad weather. Happily, by the time I'd showered and had breakfast, the sun was breaking through the grey clouds. With minutes to spare, I located the bus station and the very bus I needed...

Porvoo is located about 50km (31 miles) east of Helsinki on the banks of the Porvoojoki (River Porvoo). Believed to have been founded in 1346, Porvoo is Finland's second oldest city. It is famed for its old town comprising cobbled streets and wooden houses.

Typical house in Porvoo

Just over an hour after we'd left Helsinki, we pulled into Porvoo bus station. By this time, the clouds had cleared and the sky was blue. The sun was shining and the heat was rising. I was in my element as I stumbled around the cobbled streets, photographing pretty coloured wooden houses. I was also rather pleased to note that there was a distinct lack of tourists, most of them not having yet arrived by boat, and so for two blissful hours, I shared the town with just a handful of early birds.


Oh wow, look at you now...

Old wooden door

Wooden houses as far as the eye can see

 

 

Not sure if this stuff was for sale or simply decoration

Cute shop

 

Built in the 15th century, Porvoon tuomiokirkko (Porvoo Cathedral) has had a turbulent history, having been destroyed by fire no less than five times! The first occasion was in 1508 at the hands of Danish forces, then in 1571, 1590 and 1708 by the Russians, and most recently in 2006 by an 18-year old arsonist.

The long-suffering cathedral



The, er, 'interesting' artwork on the gable



The gorgeous ceiling showing traces of fire damage

Looking down the nave

As well as its medieval centre, the town is known for its red shore houses, perched on the edge of the River Porvoo. They were originally painted red in honour of the arrival of King Gustav III of Sweden (r. 1771-1792). Keen to get a look at them, I made my way down to the river where I was treated to peace, tranquillity and stunning views...


The River Porvoo

Red shore houses

By 13:30, the boats had docked and the influx of tourists was like a plague of rats. They were everywhere. In search of solitude, I dived into a dark tea salon, where I indulged in tea and chocolate cake (what else?!) and near-silence. Some time later, refreshed and ready to do battle again, I emerged to a very different scene. Gone were the blue skies, and in their place ominous black clouds. The wind had picked up and the tourists were looking less happy.

My plan had been to hang around till 16:00 and get the boat back, but looking at the skies, I thought the better of it, and dragged myself back to the bus stop, where happily I was in time for the 14:45 bus back to Helsinki.