Exploring Portugal: Braga

I arrived in Braga in late September 2010. My new flatmate (and colleague) and I set off to explore the city that was to be our home for the next nine months. Despite being Portugal's third city, it was surprisingly small...

Braga's history dates back thousands of years to Celtic times when a tribe called the Callaici Bracarii or Bracarenses occupied the area. Around 136 BC, the Romans began their conquest of the region, and in 20 BC, the city of Bracara Augusta was founded. The city was to become an administrative capital of the newly-founded province of Gallaecia (comprising northwest Portugal and modern-day Galicia).

The Middle Ages saw the city changing hands several times, falling first to a Germanic people called the Suebi and later the Visigoths. In the early 8th century, Braga was captured by the Moors. In 1040, the Christian forces of King Fernando I of León and Castile (r. 1037-1065) ousted the Moors.


Top of the fountain in front of the south wing of the Archiepiscopal Court

One of the first things we came across was the attractive Edificio do Banco de Portugal (the Bank of Portugal building), which was designed by the architect João de Moura Coutinho. I was later to discover that it looked even better against a backdrop of blue sky.

The Bank of Portugal building on a summer's day

A stone's throw from the bank was Praça da República (Republic Square). This huge square is the heart of the city and is a fantastic place for people-watching from one of the many cafés. My favourite, and the oldest one in town, was Café Vianna, which has been serving residents and visitors since 1858.

Praça da República

 

 

The flower-lined Avenida da Liberdade

 

By far my favourite place in the city was Jardim de Santa Bárbara (Santa Barbara garden), a relatively modern creation backing the eastern wing of Paço Arquiepiscopal (Archiepiscopal Court). Even on a dull day in late September, the garden did not fail to impress.

In full bloom

The garden with the remains of the medieval arcade of the palace in the background

Walking towards the Archiepiscopal Court

In mid-December, I was on my way back from Vila do Conde. Arriving in Braga later than usual, I was treated to a glorious display of lights from Arco da Porta Nova (the Arch of the New Gate) all the way to Praça da República.

The light-lined streets

Floating presents

Café Vianna in all its lighted glory