Postcards from... Rome

No self-respecting traveller's list would be complete without visiting Rome, the city credited with being the birthplace of Western civilisation. Nonetheless, it wasn't until Easter 2011 that I finally had my very own Roman holiday...

Founded in 753 BC, Rome can trace its history back more than 2,500 years. It is one of the oldest continuously occupied cities in Europe, and thus has earned the name "The Eternal City". In ancient times, Rome was the capital of the Roman Empire and, since the 1st century AD, it has been the seat of the Papacy.

In the 8th century, Rome became the capital of the Papal States, the territories on the Italian peninsula that were under the direct rule of the Pope. But the unification of Italy and the founding of the Kingdom of Italy in 1861 resulted in these territories being greatly reduced. And in 1870, following the capture of Rome, the Papal States were annexed into the Kingdom of Italy and the Pope had no physical territory at all. Nonetheless, the Papacy confined itself to the Apostolic Palace on Vatican Hill, from where it continued to 'rule'. This lasted until 1929, when the fascist leader and 27th Prime Minister of Italy, Benito Mussolini (r. 1922-1943) signed the Lateran Treaty with Pope Pius XI (t. 1922-1939), which led to the founding of Vatican State. But I digress. In 1870, Rome became the capital of the Kingdom of Italy under Vittorio Emanuele II (r. 1861-1878). Finally, in 1946, it became the capital of the new Italian Republic.


A large part of Capitoline Hill was destroyed to build the brilliant white Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II

Having dreamed of this moment for about 25 years, the first thing I wanted to see was the mighty Colosseum. And, as good luck would have it, my hotel was a stone's throw from it.

Considered one of the greatest works of Roman architecture ever built, the Colosseum is the largest amphitheatre in the world and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Used for gladiatorial battles and public specatacles, it is estimated that the Colosseum could hold between 50,000 and 80,000 spectators. The building was commissioned by Emperor Vespasian (r. 69-79 AD) in 70 AD and completed in 80 AD by his son and heir, Titus (r. 79-81 AD). Titus' brother and successor, Domitian (r. 81-96 AD), made further modifications during his reign.


First look at the mighty Colosseum

Built in 312 AD, the Arch of Constantine commemorates Constantine I's (r. 306-337) victory in the Battle of Milvian Bridge

Close-up of the Colosseum

Inside the Colosseum



View of the interior from the upper level

Another view of the incredible amphitheatre

Having unintentionally but fortuitously timed my visit to coincide with Settimana della Cultura (Culture Week), I was given a free pass to several of the big-hitters, including the Forum. I couldn't wait to explore it, but I was left disappointed. Now just a sprawling but sad collection of architectural fragments, it's hard to believe that the Forum was once the beating heart of Ancient Rome. I wandered around, map in hand, trying – and failing – to imagine the area's former greatness.


All that remains of Tempio de Dioscuri (Temple of Castor and Pollux), built in 495 BC

While the Forum may have left me a little underwhelmed, Circus Maximus did not. Measuring 621 x 118 m (2,037 x 387 ft) and with the capacity to hold 250,000 spectators, Circus Maximus was the first and largest stadium in Ancient Rome and its Empire.

Overlooking Circus Maximus

The Circus from the other end

Fontana di Trevi stands at the junction of three roads (tre vie) and marks the end point of the Acqua Vergine, formerly the Acqua Virgo, which was the 22 km-long (14 miles) aqueduct that supplied Ancient Rome with water for more than 400 years.

In 1629, Pope Urban VIII (t. 1623-1644) decided that the original fountain was not dramatic enough, and so asked Gian Lorenzo Bernini (1598-1680) to come up with some possible renovations. The project never came to fruition though.

Years later, in 1730, Pope Clement XII (t. 1730-1740) announced a competition to design the new fountain. Architect Nicola Salvi (1697-1751) was awarded the commission – although he hadn't actually won the competition – and work began in 1732. Salvi died before the project was finished and the task of completion fell to sculptor Pietro Bracci (1700-1773) whose Oceanus (God of water) is the central piece of the fountain. At 26.3 metres (86 ft) high and 49.15 metres (161.3 ft) wide, Fontana di Trevi is the largest Baroque fountain in the city. It is also one of the most famous fountains in the world.

The stunning Fontana di Trevi

 

The Papal Coat of Arms, under which there is a dedication to Pope Clement XII

Pietro Bracci's Oceanus, aka Neptune

 

Another attempt at capturing the fountain's beauty

During my exploration of the city, I came across Ponte Sant' Angelo (Bridge of the Holy Angel). Originally known as Pons Aelius (Bridge of Hadrian), this bridge was built by Emperor Hadrian (r. 117-138 AD) around 134 AD. Spanning the River Tiber, it connected the city centre with his newly-constructed mausoleum, now known as Castel Sant' Angelo (The Castle of the Holy Angel).

 

Legend has it that in the 7th century an angel appeared on the roof of the castle to announce the end of the plague. To celebrate this, Pope Gregory I (t. 590-604) supposedly changed the name of the bridge from Pons Sancti Petri (Bridge of Saint Peter) to Pons Sanct' Angelo.

 

Ponte Sant' Angelo

During his time in office, Pope Paul III (t. 1534-1549) commissioned the Italian architect and sculptor Raffaello da Montelupo to create fourteen angels for the bridge. In 1669, Pope Clement IX (t. 1667-1669) decided to replace the now 134-year old statues with new, Baroque creations. He commissioned Gian Lorenzo Bernini to create ten angels holding instruments of the Passion (aka Weapons of Christ). I found these angels more interesting than the castle I'd come to see and consequently spent a while photographing them! I'm not sure how much I'd have liked them had the sky not been so perfectly blue!


Angel with the lance

Angel with the sudarium (a sweat cloth used for wiping the face clean)



Angel with the cross

More commonly known as Castel Sant' Angelo, the Mausoleum of Hadrian was commissioned by the emperor himself around 130 AD. His ashes, together with those of his wife Sabina, who had died around 136 AD, and his first adoptive son, Lucius Aelius, were placed in the mausoleum a year after his death. Succeeding emperors followed suit, with ashes being placed there until around 217 AD.

 

In 401 AD, the building was converted into a military fortress, which led to the damage and disappearance of the tomb's contents and decorations. The urns and the ashes were scattered when the Visigoths sacked the city in 410, and considerable structural damage was done when the Goths besieged Rome in 537 AD. Renamed in 590 AD, the mausoleum is still called Castel Sant' Angelo today.

 

With a history going back almost 2,000 years, the castle has been through a lot. It started out as a mausoleum for Emperor Hadrian and his family. It then became a fortress, a castle and later a prison, before ending up as a museum following its decommission in 1901.

 

Castel Sant'Angelo (Castle of the Holy Angel)

Approximately 44 hectares (110 acres) in size and with a population of just 840, Vatican City is the smallest internationally-recognised independent state in the world. And contained in that tiny state is a wealth of cultural sites, including St. Peter's Basilica, the Sistine Chapel and the Vatican museums.

Now entering Vatican City



Piazza San Pietro (St. Peter's Square) with a 4,000-year old Egyptian obelisk erected in 1568 in the centre

In 1505, Pope Julius II (t. 1503-1513) decided to demolish the 4th century Old St. Peter's Basilica, which had fallen into disrepair, and build a monumental structure that would house his own tomb. Work commenced the following year using the design of architect Donato Bramante (1444-1514). In 1626, some twenty Popes, thirteen architects and sculptors, among them Raphael, Michelangelo and Bernini, and 120 years later the Basilica was finally finished. Today it is one of the holiest Catholic sites in the world.

The iconic dome

Before I could get into the Basilica I had to take a tour of the Vatican Museums. Since this would allow me to see the Sistine Chapel, I figured it was a must-do. In a bid to avoid the long and winding queues for entry, I shelled out an eye-watering €50 for a guided tour that would enable me to skip the queue. Or not as it turned out. The company had failed to buy tickets and my party and I were forced to join the ridiculously long line and wait our turn, which came an hour-and-a-quarter later.


Statue of a River God

Finally inside, I was initially wowed by the elaborate detailing on the ornate ceilings and I paused to photograph each one. But over three hours later, tired and grumpy, I was suffering from sensory and information overload and keen to escape. I couldn't help but perk up when I saw the Sistine Chapel. I would have liked to spend more time there, but our guide insisted that we move on.

Detail of the ceiling in the map room

Another of the wonderful ceilings

This colourful ceiling was one of my favourites

Section of the Sistine Chapel ceiling

I can't remember how many more rooms we saw, but by the time we reached the final sight – the magnificent Basilica – I was beyond ready to call it a day. I quickly abandoned the tour group, took a couple of photos and literally fell outside. After more than four hours it was so good to see daylight again, so good to feel the gentle breeze on my face and so, so good to be free.


Feeling dwarfed by the interior

Elaborate detailing

Detail on the ceiling of St. Peter's Basilica

Now, I wish that I'd spent more time inside, wish that I'd taken even a few moments to just sit and contemplate, but at the time I was so utterly exhausted that escape was the only thing on my mind. I guess it just means that I will have to plan a return trip...

The statue of St. Peter in front of the Basilica