Exploring Portugal: Lisbon #2

Not having seen everything I wanted to the first time round, a return trip to Lisbon was always on the cards. This time, however, I would be going alone. And to avoid having to have that awkward conversation with my colleague, I tacked the trip onto the end of my Christmas holiday, flying from Bristol to Lisbon instead of Porto.

The surprising ease with which I got back to Lisbon was quickly counter-balanced by my having forgotten both the name of the hostel I had booked and its location. Fortunately I had had the good sense to bring not just Mr Red (my netbook) but my dongle as well (yay me!) so I found myself a seat in arrivals and logged on. Ten minutes later I had the necessary information.

To make life easy for myself I decided to get a taxi but when I stepped outside the terminal, I saw the aerobus, which at just €3.50 (£2.80/US$4.40) was a much better bet. A short hop later I was deposited at Rossio, where I was treated to a very different Lisbon from the one I had seen previously...

Rossio is on the corner of the posh Chiado district, and it shows. It's a world away from the grungy Alfama district. Happily the bus stop was literally outside the hostel. Though fairly unenticing from the oustide, once inside, it was like I stepped into a whole new world. It was large and bright, with comfy seats everywhere. The dorms were a delight – warm coloured walls, rag rugs on polished wooden floors, comfortable beds with pretty bedspreads – and each bed had its own locker underneath complete with a safe. My window looked out onto the square, still bedecked in Christmas lights. Amazingly all this set me back a mere €15 pn (£12/US$19). Toto, I don't think we're in Paris anymore!

The view from my hostel window

I had had high hopes of seeing everything I had missed, and of ticking off several things from Rough Guide's 34 things not to miss list. Instead, illness and sense (possibly brought on by said illness) caused me to rethink my plans. Thus, I divided my time between the Chiado district, the beaches and Belém.

Arched walkway at Praça do Comércio



Early morning at Praça do Comércio

View across the Tagus

Seagulls gazing out to sea

 

The remains of the Igreja do Carmo in Rossio Square

On my first day, I spent an enjoyable couple of hours in Cascais. Having taken in the main sights, I walked the 2 km (1.25 miles) along the seafront to Estoril, home of the casino which inspired Ian Fleming to write Casino Royale. From there I caught the train back to Lisbon.


The first of many beautiful beaches at Cascais



Farol de Santa Marta



Deserted beaches at Cascais



Seagulls in flight



Expanses of empty beach at Estoril

 

 

The inspiration for Casino Royale

Not fancying the stress of getting to Lisbon's Campo Grande station to catch a bus to Mafra, the next day was reserved entirely for Belém. Unfortunately several hundred others had the same idea. The crowds meant that the pastéis de Belém had long-since sold out and entry to Mosteiro dos Jerónimos would have required the patience of a saint, not to mention an hour-long queue. No thanks!

Statue of Vasco da Gama



Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

Manueline style architecture



Close-up of the bell tower

As much of the monastery as I saw

So, I crossed the footbridge and went to brave the crowds at Padrão dos Descobrimentos and the queues at the Torre de Belém instead... The lift to the top of Padrão dos Descobrimentos was fairly painless. The views were something of a disappointment though, as being of the shorter persuasion, I wasn't really tall enough to see over the walls (and I was wearing heels). The views from Torre de Belém were equally disappointing, this time because they were obstructed by unchecked crowds, all here to see the 'must-see' of Belém. The verdict? I'm glad I went but I think Belém is probably best seen on a rainy day!


The ship-like Padrão dos Descobrimentos



Padrão dos Descobrimentos with Ponte 25 de Abril in the background



Torre de Belém