Monday 16 March 2015

Exploring Portugal: Batalha

All it took for me to want to visit Mosteiro da Batalha (Battle Abbey) was a single picture. And having seen it, I knew I had to go there. Fortunately, the five-day holiday for Carnaval provided me with the perfect opportunity.

Following a day in Nazaré, we picked up a brand-new Citroen C3 and hit the road. It didn't take us long to reach Batalha. The views on the approach were stunning. I could barely wait for my colleague to park the car so we could get out and explore.

Battle Abbey in all its glory

Batalha is a Dominican convent that was built to commemorate Portuguese victory over the Castilians at the 1385 battle of Aljubarrota. Built in the Late Gothic and Manueline styles, work commenced in 1386, spanning the reign of seven kings until its completion in 1517.

However, what stands on the site today is not the 14th-16th century original but rather a modern replica. The original suffered some damage in the earthquake of 1755. It was then sacked by Napoleonic troops in the early 19th century. The final nail in the coffin came in 1834 when the Dominicans were expelled from the complex, and the abandoned complex fell into ruin.

In 1840, King Fernando II of Portugal (r. 1837-1853), commissioned the restoration of the convent, a programme that was to last until the early 20th century. In 1907, it was declared a national monument, and in 1983 it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Looking skywards


The main portal


Details on the exterior


One of the beautiful windows


Aesthetically pleasing lines

After a leisurely stroll round the outside of the convent, we made our way inside. My photos of the interior are not worth putting up, with the exception, that is, of the two below. Throughout the entire building, the stained glass cast gorgeous coloured patterns on the walls and floors. I was utterly enchanted.

Looking down the central nave


The effects of the stained glass

I have always loved cloisters, and Batalha boasts two rather lovely ones. The first is Claustro Real (Royal Cloister). Built between 1448 and 1477, it's a beautiful blend of Gothic and Manueline architecture.

Looking across the cloister
 

Between the colonettes
 
 
Sunlit walkway


Just because I love cloister walkways

A stone's throw from Claustro Real is Claustro Do Rei Afonso V (The Cloister of King Afonso V). Built in the traditional Gothic style, it stands in contrast with the Manueline flamboyance of the Royal Cloister. It was one of my favourite areas of the complex.

Simpler walkway


View from upstairs


Looking down on the cloister

The monastery was never finished, testament to which are the Capelas Imperfeitas (the unfinished chapels). The octagonal structure, which is only accessible from outside the convent, was commissioned in 1437 by King Duarte of Portugal (r. 1433-1438) as a mausoleum for him and his family. However, only he and his wife, Queen Elena of Aragón, are buried there.

The interior of the roofless chapel
 

Detail of the stone carvings

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