Exploring España: Granada #1

Long before I had any thoughts of living in Spain, I dreamed of visiting Andalucía, and high on my list was Granada. So you can imagine how excited I was when I found a cheap flight to Málaga, from where it would be an easy bus ride to Granada...

On Thursday, 15th May, 2014, I got up at 04:00 (and when I say 'got up', I mean sat up because, try as I might, I hadn't been able to sleep). I got the airport bus from C/ O' Donnell at around 05:00 and before long I was at Madrid Barajas T4. The plane took off at 07:40, and by 08:50 I was in Málaga. Now all I had to do was get to the main bus station.

I left the airport and joined the queue for 09:20 bus to the city centre, and was immediately reminded of why Málaga has such an awful reputation among 'real' tourists – it's one of the major airports for sun-seeking Brits. The line of loud, flabby, chain-smoking chavs who had evidently already been on the drink was quite frankly off-putting. Thankfully, they were boarding buses to Torremolinos, Fuengirola, Marbella and the like, while I boarded a just about Brit-free bus to the city centre.

I had timed my arrival in Málaga almost perfectly and had just enough time to buy a ticket to Granada and board the swankiest bus I've ever been on (Alsa Supra – if you get a chance, take it!). And an hour and a half later I was in Granada. My mistake was opting to walk from the station to the centre. I did it, but it took over an hour in near 30°C (86°F) heat! To save yourself from the same fate, get bus #3 or #33 from outside the station. Journey time is about 20 mins.

I was beyond frazzled when I reached the centre, but I found my hotel easily enough. Showered and changed I went out to explore. My first impressions of the city were good. Bus station aside, it was very walkable. I had a look around the main streets before heading towards the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Albayzín district. I was so hungry that I did what I almost never do and had a menú del día (set menu) at one of the touristy establishments opposite the Alhambra. Then, happily refueled, I continued my explorations.

The road leading to the Albayzín

Looking up at the Alhambra

I decided that my first port of call should be one of the miradores (viewing points). I hadn't banked on there being a distinct lack of signage though. Having seen a grand total of ONE sign indicating the rough direction of travel, it wasn't long before I was lost. And it seems that I wasn't the only one. On every corner, getting increasingly hot and bothered, were tourists perusing maps, faces creased in confusion. Finally, though, I found what I was looking for – Mirador de San Cristóbal.


The old wall and the Sierra Nevada from Mirador de San Cristóbal



A view from a little further down



Flowers in bloom at the lookout point



In the heart of the Albayzín

Typical Andalucían street

A splash of colour

Having successfully located one mirador, I now wanted to find the other – Mirador de San Nicolás. If the first had been hard to find, this was near-impossible. I can't tell you how many streets I walked down only to be disappointed, or how many times I walked in circles. When I finally did find it, I was almost too tired to appreciate it! I dragged myself up the steps, took a couple of pictures and descended again, missing out on the best views further along.


The Alhambra from Mirador de San Nicolás

I left the Albayzín and walked slowly back into the centre. While aimlessly wandering around I came across El Corral del Carbón. Built in the 14th century by Yusuf I, Sultan of Granada (r. 1333-1354), it is the oldest Arabic building in Granada. After the Reconquista (Christian reconquest) in 1492 in which the Moors were driven out of Granada, the building was used as a coal market, and this is where its current name comes from.

The entrance to El Corral del Carbón



A closer look at the plasterwork

The wooden ceiling

Having expelled the Muslims, the Catholic Monarchs, King Fernando II (r. 1479-1516) and Queen Isabel I (r. 1479-1504), ordered the building of La Catedral de Granada on the site of a former mosque. The foundations were laid out in the Gothic style, but the cathedral itself was built in the Renaissance style.

The doorway near Capilla Real with a carved 'F' and 'Y'

Close-up of the 'Y' for Ysabel, as it was spelled at the time

Stone carvings, again depicting 'F' and 'Y' for Fernando and Ysabel

Another of the doorways

The opulent cathedral interior

The beautiful cupola design

Looking towards the altar

Inside the cathedral

  

In 1504, two months before Queen Isabel died, the Monarchs decided that they wanted to be buried in Granada and so they commissioned Capilla Real (Royal Chapel) to be built. It was constructed between 1505 and 1517 in the Gothic style, and their bodies were brought there in 1521. It was also intended to be the burial place of their grandson, Carlos I, King of Spain (r. 1516-1556), but his son and successor, Felipe II (r. 1556-1598), had him buried in El Escorial instead.  



The entrance to Capilla Real

  



A manuscript that I photographed before seeing the 'no photos' sign



With the following day reserved for the mighty Alhambra, there was little else I wanted to see. But an evening stroll in search of food took me past La Iglesia y Convento de San Antón. A golden glow was emanating from the open side door and before I knew it, I was standing inside the church marvelling at some stunningly ornate chapels...

The main altarpiece

A richly-decorated chapel



Two of the many chapels

Close-up of a golden chapel

Although I liked everything I saw, I didn't love anything (although that last church came pretty close). Were it not for the Alhambra, I couldn't see myself visiting the city – I just didn't find it that appealing. Nonetheless, I am glad I went. I might even revisit it one day, but only so I can see the Alhambra at my own pace.