Belgrade has a long history dating back to at least 7000 BC when it was inhabited by the Vinča culture, one of the largest prehistoric cultures in Europe. It was then inhabited by Thraco-Dacians until it was conquered in 279 BC by the Celts, who named it Singi-dūn. After the Celts came the Romans, who conquered the city during the reign of Augustus (r. 27 BC to 14 AD) and Singi-dūn became Singidunum. The city thrived, not least because of its strategic position on the Via Militaris, a Roman road that connected the Empire's settlements along the Danube.
In the 3rd century AD, the Roman Empire began to decline. Singidunum was one of the last major strongholds to survive the frequent Barbarian attacks, and it remained an important military outpost in the 4th century. But in 441 AD, it fell to the Huns, who razed the city and sold the remaining Roman inhabitants into slavery. Over the next 200 years, the city changed hands several times, coming under the rule of the Romans in 454, the Sarmatians shortly after, followed by the Ostrogoths in 470, the Gepids in 488, before ending up back in the hands of the Ostrogoths in 504 and, six years later, the Romans.
In 535, the Byzantine emperor, Justinianus I (r. 527-565) rebuilt the city, restoring it to its former glory and military importance. For the next few decades, the city saw a peaceful period, mainly because Justinianus I and his nephew and successor, Justinus II (r. 565-574) were busy creating wars elsewhere, such as the Byzantine-Sasanian War (572-591) and playing off their enemies against each other. Justinus II allowed the Avars attack the Slavs from Roman territory, and in doing so showed them where they could make the most money. And in 574, with the Roman army tied up in the war in Mesopotamia (part of modern-day Iraq, Kuwait, Syria and small parts of Turkey and Iran), there was no-one to stop the Avars crossing the Danube. They were temporarily placated by a payment of 60,000 silver pieces from the new Byzantine emperor, Tiberius II Constantine (r. 574-582). But a decade later, they captured Singidunum.
Tiberius II's successor, Mauricius (r. 582-602) was determined to push the Avars out once and for all. However, the bulk of the army was still fighting in the war started by Justinus II, so he could only afford to station a small garrison at Singidunum. It was enough to keep the warring Avars and Slavs at bay though and the Balkans remained under Byzantine rule.
In 602, Mauricius was overthrown and executed by a dissatisfied general named Phocas (r. 602-610). Rather unwisely, Phocas removed the army from the Balkans in 605, and effectively signed the end of the reign of the Byzantines in the Balkans. Shortly after, Singidunum fell to the Avars who burned the city to the ground. Around 630, the Slavs settled in the area, and in Singidunum, although the city had lost all of its military importance.
In the 9th century, the Slavs established the city of Beligrad, meaning 'White City' or 'White Fort' after the colour of the stone from which it was built. The name derives from the Slavic words 'bel' (white) and 'grad' (city/town or fort). Since Serbs don't pronounce the 'l' in 'bel', it was later written as it is pronounced – Beograd or Београд. Newly-built and named, the city would one day regain its earlier strategic significance. Most notably, it would become the capital of Yugoslavia from its creation in 1918 to its dissolution in 2006, after which it became the capital of the new Republic of Serbia (Republika Srbija or Република Србија).
 |
| The iconic Hotel Moskva |
I arrived in Belgrade at a little after 15:00, and made my way to my hostel. Tired though I was, I forced myself to go out and explore but I knew the sunny weather wasn't going to hold. And indeed I was right, but that's another story. I easily located the main street, Knez Mihailova, and wandered down it, marvelling at the detailing on the buildings. Before long I had reached the end of the street, which brought me to Kalemegdan, the old fortress.
 |
| A shopfront on Knez Mihailova |
On the confluence of the Rover Sava and the Danube sits Belgrade Fortress (Beogradska tvrđava or Београдска тврђава), which comprises a citadel and Kalemegdan Park. The park gets its name from two Turkish words – 'kale', meaning 'fortress,' and 'meydan', meaning 'plaza/square'.
 |
| The fortress sitting atop a 125 metre-high (411 feet) ridge |
 |
| View across the River Sava |
I was drawn to a tall monument, which turned out to be Pobdenik (The Victor). Designed by the famous Croatian sculptor and architect, Ivan Meštrović, it was built to commemorate Serbia's liberation from Ottoman rule. Erected in 1928, the sculpture stands 14 metres high (approx. 46 feet). In his left hand the statue holds a falcon, watching for new threats on the horizon, while in his right hand there is a sword ready to counter these threats.
 |
| The Victor, Belgrade's most recognisable landmark |
 |
| Archway in the fortress walls |
 |
| View across the Danube from the fortress |
 |
| Standing on the walls looking out over the Danube |
 |
| A section of the fortress walls |
The next day I woke up to grey skies. Although it wasn't raining, I decided that my best bet would be to visit some churches – at least I didn't need blue skies to do that.
First up was the Alexander Nevsky Church (Crkva Svetog Aleksandra Nevskog or Црква Светог Александра Невског), a Serbian Orthodox church. The original church was built in 1877, but plans were made to build a larger one. Work started in 1912, but was put on hold with the outbreak of WWI. Consequently, the church wasn't completed until around 1928. On a grey day, the church looked dull and uninspiring, so I was utterly delighted to see what lay inside...
 |
| Grey day, grey church |
 |
| Detail of the façade |
 |
| The gorgeous (and far from grey) interior |
 |
| A closer look at the altarpiece |
 |
| The chandelier |
I stayed in the church for a while, sitting quietly on a chair watching the faithful come and go and biding my time for the church to be empty so I could take photos. I timed it perfectly, putting my camera away just as another batch of church-goers entered.
From there, I made my way to St Mark's Church (Crkva Svetog Marka or Црква Светог Марка), another Serbian Orthodox church, this one built between 1931 and 1940 on the site of a previous church dating back to 1835.
 |
| The lovely façade |
 |
| Arches within arches |
I loved the outside of the church, which may have had something to do with the sun coming out and granting me blue skies! However, after the gorgeousness of the previous church, the inside was slightly underwhelming.
 |
| Looking down the centre of the church towards the altarpiece |
 |
| The huge candelabra under which is the main point of worship |
 |
| Looking up at the cupola |
 |
| Memorial to the 43rd Patriarch of the Serbian Orthodox Church (t. 1958-1990) |
 |
| Votive holders |
Back outside and the skies had turned grey again and were threatening rain. I wasn't overly concerned though because I had one more church to see – the famous St Sava's. I set off walking through the nearby Tašmajdan Park. As I turned back for last look at St Mark's, I noticed that the cupola fit perfectly in the gap between two trees so I whipped my camera out once again...
 |
| An impressive cupola, even with ominous-looking skies |
By the time I reached St Sava's Cathedral (Hram Svetog Save or Храм Светог Саве), the skies had turned black and the wind was rising. No doubt about it, a storm was brewing. I stood outside long enough to grab a photo or two and then headed for the entrance...
The history of St Sava's goes back to 1594, when Serbs carrying flags with the icon of Saint Sava rebelled against Ottoman rule. The uprising was quickly suppressed and the Ottoman Grand Vizier Sinan Pasha ordered that that sarcophagus and relics of Saint Sava be brought to Belgrade. The Ottomans then built a pyre on the Vračar plateau and publicly incinerated the lot.
Some 300 years later, in 1895, the Society for the Construction of the Church of Saint Sava on Vračar was founded in Belgrade. Its objective was to build a cathedral to Saint Sava on the place of the burning. In 1905, a competition was launched to design the church, but all five applications were rejected as not being good enough. Three wars – the First and Second Balkan Wars (1912-1913) and WWI (1914-1918) – put a stop to all plans for construction.
In 1919, the Society was re-established, and seven years later new appeals for designs were made. The chosen design, which actually won second place, was by architect Aleksandar Deroko (1894-1988). However, construction did not actually begin until 1935, some 340 years after the burning of Saint Sava's remains. And in 1941, following the bombing of Belgrade, work stopped completely. The Society ceased to the exist and the German army, who were now occupying the city, used the unfinished church as a parking lot!
For years the church stood unfinished. But in 1958, Patriarch German, the 43rd Patriarch of the Serbian Orthodox Church (to whom there is a memorial in St Mark's Church), decided to continue with the building of the church. Construction began in 1985 under architect Branko Pešić (1921-2006). The walls were erected to their full height of 40 metres (131 ft), and the 4,000 tonne central dome was lifted into place. By 2009, the church was complete making St Sava's the largest Orthodox church in the world and the tenth largest church building in the world. I could not wait to see inside...
 |
| Stormy skies over St Sava's |
I walked inside... and my jaw hit the floor. I had expected a masterpiece. Instead, I found myself standing in a draughty, concrete shell. I felt utterly cheated. The largest Orthodox Church in the world is a farce. All of the money has gone into building the church and there's nothing left to decorate it with. I couldn't help but notice the box near the door asking for donations in English. But it will take a lot of tourist dollars (or dinars as the case may be) to finish that church.
 |
| Standing in what may one day be the nave |
 |
| Almost the only thing that is finished |
 |
| I wonder how much a couple of carved pillars cost... |
 |
| Another carving |
Like many places, I suspect Belgrade is a city best seen in the sun. That said, I did enjoy my time there (although the permanently cold, wet feet, not so much). There were also some 'bright spots' that couldn't fail to make to me smile, among them a canopy of umbrellas, a man taking his pet rabbit for a walk down the main street and endless displays of tulips...
 |
| A canopy of brightly coloured umbrellas |
 |
| This rabbit was hopping along the main street behind its owner! |
 |
| Tulips on Knez Mihailova, the main street |
 |
| Pink tulips opposite the library |
No comments:
Post a Comment