Postcards from... Bergamo

I have spoken before about how much I'd like to revisit Milan, and yet when the opportunity presented itself, I chose to spend my time in Bergamo. Why? Partly because my flight back to Madrid was leaving from Bergamo, and partly because if I have a chance to see someplace new, I will always take it. And, despite the inclement weather, Bergamo proved to be a winner.

About 40 km (25 miles) north-east of Milan lies the walled city of Bergamo, which was built on the site of a Celtic settlement. There is evidence to suggest that the Romans were present in the area as far back at 223 BC. In 49 BC, Julius Caesar granted Bergomum (as it was then known) the status of Municipium, which led to a period of urban development. Unfortunately, the city was destroyed by Attila the Hun in the 5th century.

In 1428, Bergamo was incorporated into the Venetian State, and remained there for the next three-and-a-half centuries. The town blossomed under the Venetians. The Piazza Vecchia was created by pulling down an old quarter, and all around it new buildings sprung up, including Palazzo della Ragione, Cattedrale di Sant'Alessandro and Capella Colleoni. However, the Venetians biggest contribution to the city was the 6,200 metre (20,341 ft) long Mura Veneziane (Venetian Walls) and their ramparts (1560-1623).

In 1815, the city was handed over to the Austrian Empire. However, in 1859 during the Second Italian War of Independence it was freed by Giuseppe Garibaldi (1807-1882) and Bergamo became part of the Kingdom of Italy.


View at dusk taken on my first night

My accommodation was just outside the city walls. I entered the Città Alta (Upper Town) via Porta Sant'Agostino and then made my way along Viale delle Mura, admiring the cloudy views across the Città Bassa (Lower Town). Before long, I had reached Baluardo di San Michele (the ramparts)


Nice views despite the cloud cover

Looking out across the Città Bassa

Gate leading to Baluardo di San Michele

View from Baluardo di San Michele

Having taken in the views, I made my way into the town centre and Piazza Vecchia, home to a plethora of historical buildings, including Palazzo della Ragione, the 12th century Town Hall.


Palazzo della Ragione



The arches leading to the Basilica on the left and Capella Colleoni on the right

I was instantly drawn to the beautiful Renaissance Capella Colleoni, a church and mausoleum that houses the remains of Bartolomeo Colleoni (1400-1475), Captain-General of the Republic of Venice.

The façade of Capella Colleoni

Having marvelled at the décor in Capella Colleoni, I left and entered Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore. The Basilica was founded in 1137 on the site of an 8th century church that was dedicated to St Mary. However, financial troubles meant that the works dragged on through the 13th and 14th centuries.

It was dark inside the Basilica, but something caught my eye – the ceilings! They were magnificent! And they were also something I would end up looking at more than once that day.

One of the decorated ceilings

Another ceiling

On leaving the Basilica it was a short hop to the Neo-Classical Cattedrale di Sant'Alessandro, where once again, I was drawn to the beautifully decorated ceilings.

The arched porch

The altar

Richly-decorated interior

Stunningly beautiful ceiling

Back outside I continued exploring, willing the sun to come out. It steadfastly refused. However, it was at least dry (famous last words!). I paused to take a photo of the arched walkway which forms part of the Cittadella, a 14th century citadel built by the Visconti family.

Part of the Citadella

A splash of colour

I was aimlessly wandering around, just taking in the views, when it started drizzling. Growing up in Ireland means that light rain doesn't overly bother me and so even though I had an umbrella in my bag, I didn't take it out. All of a sudden an old man appeared in front of me and held his umbrella over my head. I smiled, told him in Spanish that I had one, and pulled it out for him to see. But he didn't leave. He just stood there smiling manically.


Another view of Città Bassa

He spoke to me in Italian. I replied in Spanish, but he didn't understand. I started walking and he followed. When I stopped, he stopped. It was patently obvious that he was intending to hang around with me. I figured that the best thing to do would be to go back to the centre where there would surely be lots of other people. So I headed for Piazza Vecchia, all too aware that he was hot on my heels.

Back in Piazza Vecchia I practically dived into the Basilica. And like a shadow, he followed. As bad luck would have it, there was a service on. I didn't want to disrupt it, but neither did I want to spend another moment in this evidently perverted man's company. So I tip-toed around the church, weaving in and out of the aisles in a bid to lose him. But everywhere I went, I heard his footsteps behind me. Click clack, click clack. I quickened my pace a little. He did likewise. Clickclack, clickclack. I silently weighed up my options, then chose a near empty row, squeezed past the occupants and practically ran for the door. Clickclack, clickclack. He was not far behind me. I wrenched the door open and, once outside, took off running. He called after me but I didn't stop. He chased me to the main street, but I was faster. I may not have been running since March, but thank God I've still got it. Even in soggy-bottomed jeans and ballet flats, I can still run! I tore down the main street and dived down side street after side street until I was sure that I had lost him. Only then did I allow myself to breathe.

Unspoiled views

Thinking it best to avoid the main streets, I made my way back to the outer walls and walked around the perimeter of the city. Then I walked back through the Citadella and got the funicular up to Castello di San Vigilio.

Pretty in pink (and purple)

Views from the castle

Another viewpoint

A friendly cat

  

Having seen the castle, I got a bus back down to the town and carried on exploring. By this time I had forgotten all about the old pervert, so imagine my surprise when three hours after our initial encounter he saw me in the street and grabbed me firmly by the arm, glaring and muttering in Italian! I wrenched my arm free and said coldly and firmly, "Go away. GO. AWAY!" And he did. Perhaps he realised that I really didn't want his company, or perhaps he had seen the police officer hanging around...

Having got rid of the millstone, I made my way to Parco delle Rimembranze (Remembrance Park), which granted me views across the Città Bassa. And the football stadium from where supporters' roars shattered the peace...

Looking across the Città Bassa

A collection of towers

Having seen what there was to see, I slowly descended the steps. On reaching the bottom I caught sight of a black cat and decided to try and get a photo. I didn't need to try all that hard as the cat was super friendly. It bounded over to me and start rubbing itself against me, all fur and purr. It rolled on the ground wanting its belly tickled. And I couldn't resist. I am sucker for a friendly feline! It was so loving and attentive (or attention-seeking) that I felt really guilty when I got up to leave.

Really? You're leaving me?

The sun had never appeared and it was getting cold, but with time to kill before I needed to be at the airport, I had one last wander around the town, drinking in the mountain views for as long as I could.

Another mountainous view

Before long I found myself in Parco Sant'Agostino taking in the views. And I wasn't the only one. Sitting on the park wall looking out over the town was a pair of mallards! Intrigued but trying not to scare them, I crept closer. I grabbed a couple of shots and then left them to enjoy their evening in peace...

Date night!

A watchful mallard

Taking in the views...